Saturday, July 22, 2006

Day 25: Minne-soh-da




79.26 mi max 34.5 6:11.40 avg 12.7 mph

This has totally been my week. I'm finally getting into this whole cycling thing!

I HAVE A FAST BUTTON!!!!!!

Throughout the day, I saw lots of people - I didn't ride with anyone for very long. The wind was far less than it has been, although there was still a bit of a headwind. Crossing the border into Minnesota was literally like crossing into a different country. Suddenly there were windmills (harnessing some of the horrible winds)...the air even felt different, cooler...and there were hills again. I actually hit over 30 mph!

I think the best part of the day was getting into camp at 2 pm, having to FIND my luggage because it was mixed up with so many other people's bags, setting up my tent and then taking a half hour nap. Then, I took a shower and went back to sleep (yeah for earplugs!) until dinner. I'd have missed the meal entirely had Brian not come out to beat on my tent. And at 9:00, I'm ready for bed again - bringing my sleep total to 10 hours. I'm liking that :)

Day 24: Laura Ingalls Wilder walked here!


77.46 mi max 24.5 6:34.20 avg 11.8

Guess what! It was windy again today. I had this theory that there's only so much wind in the world. In the US, it starts out in the Appalachians, rushes west across the plains, and then collects itself in the Rockies and blows back east. Kind of like the water in a bathtub, I call it the Sloshback Effect. Unfortunately, that theory has no scientific basis, and is apparently dead wrong, because all wind comes from the east. Whatever I was told about the prevailing winds coming from the west was a REALLY big lie.

About 10 miles into today's ride, Brian & Deb caught up with me, and we started our own little train...that was cool! Deb's had a really tough couple of days, including a festered infection which has gone systemic and since she's a vegetarian, she's had a hard time finding enough protein here in the middle part of the US. Meals here typically consist of Meat on top of Meat wrapped in Meat with a side of Meat...which is great if you like meat. She fell behind after a while, so Brian & I took turns fighting the wind, although it felt a lot like I was in front more often than not. He said that he was very tired, and was having problems with his cleats, so when Eric C showed up and announced that he was riding in (he crashed a couple of days ago and has been having some shoulder problems), the two of them took off for Dairy Queen. Deb showed up, and we took some halfway pictures - we've come 1,650 miles since June 26!!! (I wasn't QUITE celebrating, since my halfway point is still about 275 miles away). We stuck together through the wind until Mark's checkpoint, about 20 miles from camp. It was great to have Deb there, actively communicating when she felt ready to pull and when she needed to take a break from the wind. When we got to the store though, she talked about sagging in...I still had plenty of energy and took off for De Smet, South Dakota. Apparently, Laura Ingalls Wilder lived there in the Little Town On the Prairie. Many of the things that she wrote about are still there, like the store, and her house. The fact that she lived there is probably one of the few things that De Smet has going for it - as I found out, it doesn't even have a laundromat. There is DEFINITELY a lot of commercialization of everything Wilder in this area.

Day 23: The White Line





73.97 mi 26.0 max 6:33.35 avg 11.2 mph

Today's adventure began with a trip to the ER. For the past two weeks, I've been intermittently plagued by little critters who ought to be obliterated with a wire bottle brush. Some of my good friends in camp have done their best to help me cope, but I finally decided to seek some intervention from the outside. Better living through chemistry!

Of course, that put me an hour behind everyone else, and made me DFL (dead last) until checkpoint, at the Frosty Freeze. Lisa & Eric were there - Lisa, Eric's girlfriend, could only do one week of the trip, so she chose the one with the most heat & wind of the whole summer. They invited me to stay with them, but I had to keep moving. Last night, Brian & I had talked about RAAM, and I'd asked him if he'd ever dealt with headwinds like the ones we were experiencing. He told me that he'd just tucked and put his head down and watched the white line on the road (the van following called out which way to veer if there was junk in the road). So, today, I tucked. Instantly, I could go 1 to 1.5 mph faster! It made a difference.

Although I spent the day alone, I had a really, really good day...it was me fighting the wind. I don't remember if I thought about much of anything besides the white line. It was kind of brain-numbing. It was smart to look up occasionally...if for no other reason than to see houses coming at me occasionally, or HUGE pieces of farm machinery passing me.

I did see a fawn today, and was within six feet of it. It looked really skinny...I hoped it still had a mom. It was probably only four months old.

We're staying in the Miller High School tonight. Some of us are sleeping in the BAND room, which is air conditioned. It's too bad there's no string program here - but quite honestly, I'm not the slightest bit interested in starting one. #1: The cycling would be dull. At best. Straight lines & flatness & wind. #2 The kayaking would be non-existent. #3 There are no mountains to climb.

There were a couple of instruments lying around the place, though, so Steve and I entertained a small crowd with a flugelhorn and a french horn, playing such classics as The Star Spangled Squeaky Banner. One final note: don't let your gummy worms sit in the sun, or they'll meet the same fate that Dave's did...

Day 22: South Dakota...you can have it...

95.61 mi 32.0 max 8:43.02 avg 10.9

I don't know what it was about today. The headwinds were strong and absolutely relentless, all day long. I had two flat tires...but I felt great. In the morning, I rode with Steve. We traded jokes, in an effort to find some kind of humor and distraction from the wind. At mile 49, though, he asked me, "Would you be ok if I sagged?" At first, I think the staff might have been concerned that they'd be attempting to fit in two riders in the gear truck (there was only room for one). It was my intention, though, to continue onward, fighting the wind, so it worked out perfectly.

Water was scarce all day, as you can see from the Bad River.

At about mile 60, I passed a VERY small store, where several riders were enjoying ice, shade, and a brief reprieve from the wind. As I rode into the parking area, I asked about the availability of a restroom, and five heads shook no - but there was a place about a half mile up the road. My bladder had reached critical mass, so I wasted no time in visiting with everyone, and took off. As it turned out, when I biked up to the picnic area, two older couples were attempting a picnic in the hurricane. They asked me where I was from and where I was going, and when I told them, they said, "Here, have a banana. Here, have some crackers and ham. Here, have a soda." (actually, they said pop.) I wasn't in the best position to refuse - I was actually very grateful that they were there and enjoyed talking with them (more great people I've met on the road!).

Brian caught up with me at that point, but as soon as Anna passed us, he looked at me and said he was sagging in. For the second time that day, I nodded with empathy, but resolved to continue on to camp despite the conditions. About two miles later, though, Brian got out of the van and decided to keep riding.

I'm not sure who was doing more pulling on the way into camp. With my new hill technique, I was pretty psyched that I could keep up with Brian on the climbs. I drafted a lot, but also counted down: only 15 more miles, with a one mile downhill. I can do another 8 miles today. By this time tomorrow, we'll be done...with our tents set up...and taking a nap...

Pictures were scarce today. I focused on getting myself into camp, and even when I did look around, there really wasn't anything very interesting. Do watch out for the Varmint Hunters Association (VHA).

$10 night - meaning that staff gives us money for us to rustle up our own eats. For Brian & me, dinner was at the Pizza Ranch, across the Missouri River. It did require riding bikes after the ride was over, but my tummy had decided on pizza, and that was the only thing that it would have. By the time the dessert pizza arrived, we were both kinda stuffed, and ended up taking it home (excellent for breakfast, cinnamon & sugar & buttery goodness on a crust). Home is, of course, a tent. That means that I have aromatic leftovers in my tent. Everything in my little backpacking heart says that this is bad Bad BAD!!!!!

Day 21: Beautiful Badlands



102.57 mi max 33.5 mph 7:08.28 avg 14.3

If you have been following any of the other blogs out there (go to the ALA's website for the complete list), most of them will tell you about how difficult today's conditions were: extreme heat, rolling hills that seemed to be more hills and less rolling, and a headwind to rival the Gillette day. I will tell you, though, that today might possibly have been the best day of my entire life...but I'm getting ahead of myself.

The ride began uneventfully, although the bank thermometers read 76 F...at 6:30 am. There was a newspaper gal out taking our pictures, so we all had to dress purty in our Big Ride jerseys. I'm not very good at wearing shirts with sleeves when it is hot out - as you can see in most of my pictures, I prefer tank tops (and besides, there's no better time to work on the tan on my shoulders). By 7:30, the Big Ride jersey was packed safely in my bag. I didn't even have to get off my bike to remove it, which was a new challenge: changing outfits while riding a bike. For the record, it's much easier in a car with cruise control.

For a little while, I was riding on a train with Dom, Kim, & Norm, but when Nature called, I answered instead of trying to stick with the group. After that, I was pretty much on my own for the rest of the day. I did see a lot of people, though, mostly because we were all leapfrogging each other as we approached the Badlands.

The first set of Badlands was pretty cool, with little plateaus interspersed with grasslands, and small peaks, maybe 50-100 ft high, jutting up from nowhere...kind of like miniature mountains that had just been spit onto the prairie. Although the Badlands were "cool", that was actually when the temperature started to rise. By the time we reached the "official" park entrance, the temperature had soared to well over 110 - some people said 114 - but I won't argue with anyone who says it was hotter. The air seared my throat and the gusts felt like blasts from a furnace.

When I turned onto the I-90 Frontage Rd., I'd begun to develop one of my famous heat headaches (which can be immobilizing), so I gobbled up a prescription strength dose of Vitamin I. I knew that I should have stopped at the gas station, but I pressed on, hoping to catch up to two riders that I'd met up with as we climbed up through the Badlands, hoping that they might be able to pull me into camp. Perhaps 5 miles along this frontage road, Mark had set up his rest stop and he waited for us with a soaking wet towel. After that ride up through the park and then across the burning plains, that towel was the best thing in the the whole world. When it was passed on to the next incoming rider, the wind evaporated the water from my skin, and I might have even gotten a goosebump or two.

Something clicked in me after I left Mark's rest stop. I figured out how to do hills...I stood up on my bike, and, for the first time in my life, really and truly climbed. I'd seen other people do it - but the few times I'd tried it, my bike felt unsteady and I didn't understand what I needed to do to make the gears work. People had asked me why I never stood, but I never had a really good reason. Perhaps the muscles in my legs were finally ready to make that leap. I passed a whole bunch of people, and stayed in front of them for a long time - I'd suddenly made this exciting breakthrough!

For many people, the heat, hills & high wind were too much, and they sagged into camp...it's always an option, especially when you consider that we'll be biking a couple hundred miles in the next few days. I kept my focus off the difficult conditions by inventing alternate lyrics (a lot like when we had nasty headwinds on the CRC - yeah Crew 2 Paddlers & Black Socks!). Remember that cool towel? I'd tanked up at the rest stop, and discovered that I could recreate the towel by taking in mouthfuls of water and aiming them at various parts of my body...the headwind did the rest for me.

Our camp was in Sudoku? Kudzu? Kadoka? South Dakota somewhere. The important part was that several of us decided to get a room to avoid the oppressive heat. Christy was one of the people who stayed in a room - she's had some of the worst luck with her bike...in three weeks, she's suffered through 12!!!!! flats, and today, her derailleur met with failure. She is one of the sweetest, most patient people I have ever met - she exudes a warmth that is so genuine...and her bike is truly testing her on her patience threshold. Hopefully, her bike will start to behave!

In the past, I've done a couple of 3-day bike tours in Maine. At least one of those days each time, it has poured. Many riders were miserable. I made it through by deciding to be a duck...ducks like water, I was a duck, so I liked water. It was a process of transmutation. During my ride today, I thought about the things I do: biking through heat waves all the way across the country, taking solo backpacking trips in the dead of winter, whitewater kayaking in spring run-off. It became clear to me that I am actually like one of those little bugs that can survive only in the most adverse of conditions, whether it's at the lip of a volcano or on the snowfields in Antarctica - I think biologists call them extremophiles. That's got to be the only explanation!

(Oh, yeah, and don't forget to check out the World's Largest Prairie Dog the next time you are visiting South Dakota. If you don't think you'll make it, I took a picture).